30 settembre 2005
Fabulous Fiesole Fotos
florence from the top of the hill
convent of san francesco
roman theatre ruins
verifying that, yes, I was there
caffelatte and gelato- my favorite things!
29 settembre 2005
Bologna and Fiesole (I’m a week behind…)
Last weekend my survey class field trip consisted of a day trip to the city of Bologna, just one hour north of Florence. One hour and one mountain range, that is. Our bus ride took us up and around and through the mountains- with fantastic views on every side. I wish that the pictures I took from the bus could even come close to capturing their beauty.
Bologna is called the Red City for two reasons: one is that red brick is the dominant building material; the other is that the city is a stronghold for socialism in Italy. It is a striking contrast to and welcome relief from the tan-yellow stucco of Florence. Bologna is also a larger city, and sustains itself on other endeavors than tourism. It is metropolitan, exciting, busy, and beautiful.
One of the most striking things about Bologna is the loggias. A loggia is an arched, covered walkway, or portico, on the ground floor, usually with housing directly above. In Bologna’s case, the loggia is an integral part of the urban fabric. Somewhere around the 1300s, the city declared that all owners of property on “wide” streets had to build loggias onto the fronts of their buildings to create temporary housing for students (Bologna is the home of Europe’s first university, and at this time there was a severe shortage of student housing). The result is that, today, there are over 36 km of loggias in Bologna, and the spaces under the loggias are fantastic pedestrian zones, separated from vehicle and moped traffic (something that is a huge problem in Florence).
One day in Bologna was perfect- enough time to develop a basic understanding of the city and how it differs from Florence, as well as enough time to take in the major historical sites and buildings. Here are just a few snapshots:
le due torri (the two towers)- yes, one is leaning and the other is extremely tall
Basilica San Stefano
Basilica San Petronio
The day after Bologna was sunny and warm, so Katherine and I decided to rent mountain bikes and trek 8 km uphill to the small town of Fiesole. Fiesole sits above Florence on the side of a mountain, offering spectacular views of the city and the entire Arno River valley.
The ride up was so hard- all uphill with hardly any resting areas! My legs felt like jell-o once we finally reached the top, but it was worth it. After some exploration of Fiesole (mainly an archeological site of Roman ruins and a beautiful convent) we took the long route back to Florence, heading down the backside of the mountain. We raced down the steepest and narrowest streets I have ever seen, passing by olive groves and lemon tree orchards and vineyards and majestic private villas and tiny farmhouses and churches. It was by far the most challenging, rewarding, and scenic bike ride I have yet to experience.
The rest of this week consisted of wrapping up a studio project on accessibility and topography within the city. We had a review today and start a new project Monday, after a well-deserved free weekend! Sunday most of our group is going to the soccer match between Florence (Fiorentina) and Livorno. It will be my first professional soccer match, and supposedly Italian soccer fans are the wildest bunch in Europe… should be crazy, I can’t wait!
Bologna is called the Red City for two reasons: one is that red brick is the dominant building material; the other is that the city is a stronghold for socialism in Italy. It is a striking contrast to and welcome relief from the tan-yellow stucco of Florence. Bologna is also a larger city, and sustains itself on other endeavors than tourism. It is metropolitan, exciting, busy, and beautiful.
One of the most striking things about Bologna is the loggias. A loggia is an arched, covered walkway, or portico, on the ground floor, usually with housing directly above. In Bologna’s case, the loggia is an integral part of the urban fabric. Somewhere around the 1300s, the city declared that all owners of property on “wide” streets had to build loggias onto the fronts of their buildings to create temporary housing for students (Bologna is the home of Europe’s first university, and at this time there was a severe shortage of student housing). The result is that, today, there are over 36 km of loggias in Bologna, and the spaces under the loggias are fantastic pedestrian zones, separated from vehicle and moped traffic (something that is a huge problem in Florence).
One day in Bologna was perfect- enough time to develop a basic understanding of the city and how it differs from Florence, as well as enough time to take in the major historical sites and buildings. Here are just a few snapshots:
le due torri (the two towers)- yes, one is leaning and the other is extremely tall
Basilica San Stefano
Basilica San Petronio
The day after Bologna was sunny and warm, so Katherine and I decided to rent mountain bikes and trek 8 km uphill to the small town of Fiesole. Fiesole sits above Florence on the side of a mountain, offering spectacular views of the city and the entire Arno River valley.
The ride up was so hard- all uphill with hardly any resting areas! My legs felt like jell-o once we finally reached the top, but it was worth it. After some exploration of Fiesole (mainly an archeological site of Roman ruins and a beautiful convent) we took the long route back to Florence, heading down the backside of the mountain. We raced down the steepest and narrowest streets I have ever seen, passing by olive groves and lemon tree orchards and vineyards and majestic private villas and tiny farmhouses and churches. It was by far the most challenging, rewarding, and scenic bike ride I have yet to experience.
The rest of this week consisted of wrapping up a studio project on accessibility and topography within the city. We had a review today and start a new project Monday, after a well-deserved free weekend! Sunday most of our group is going to the soccer match between Florence (Fiorentina) and Livorno. It will be my first professional soccer match, and supposedly Italian soccer fans are the wildest bunch in Europe… should be crazy, I can’t wait!
28 settembre 2005
Vienna pictures
the roof of st stephansdom
keeping dry
katherine and me after the opera
yes, that's me, and yes, i'm lost in a real maze
25 settembre 2005
A Weekend in Vienna, or, How Much Architecture One can Possibly See in 3 Days, or, How to Herd 55 Architecture Students around without Losing Them
It’s basically insane to try to keep 55 people together in one group, but it seems our professors are, in fact, slightly out of their minds, and that’s exactly what they did.
For three straight days last weekend we moved through Vienna, Austria, like a herd of cattle- pausing every 10 minutes to ponder an important monument or building, sketch it quickly, snap our “obligatory” photos (architects all take surprisingly similar pictures of spaces), and move on. It was an unfortunate way to see the city, but understandably the only way to do it with so many students. I was incredibly thankful I had been to Vienna before and had experienced the city at my own pace.
We saw so many buildings that I won’t bore you by listing them. The architectural highlight of the trip, for me, was the tour of the roof structure above St. Stephansdom. The roof had been built entirely of timber, and was actually taller than the interior of the nave of the cathedral, until it burned down in an accidental blaze near the end of WWII. In the following years the roof was rebuilt to the same scale and height using steel construction, which weighs half of what the timber roof weighed, and is fireproofed. The space inside the roof was amazing- like being inside an oversized barn.
We were given evenings free to explore on our own and experience the city culture and cuisine. I took advantage of being outside Pasta World to eat a fair share of Wiener Wurst and Schnitzel. I even had goulash soup! I was also pretty excited to pull my high school language skills out of the closet and spreche ein bichen Deutsch. German-speaking countries are surprisingly comforting to me, which I’m not sure I had noticed before. I felt far safer and more comfortable in Vienna than I do in Florence- which I think has a lot to do with the language.
The most “cultural” event of the weekend was our trip to the Opera. Apparently it only costs 10 Euros to sit in decent seats in one of the most famous Opera houses in the world. Not bad. We saw “The Barber of Seville”- sung in Italian, but subtitled at our seats in English. It was my first opera experience, and I have to admit I enjoyed it much more than I expected! Turns out the opera is not so bad if you can understand the story and see it live!
The weekend ended with an overnight train ride back to Florence (oh, and I was in first class, by the way… hot towels and fresh espresso in the morning!), arriving in the rain at 6:00 AM. I was exhausted for a few days, and managed to recover just in time for a one-day architectural excursion to the city of Bologna. I have a feeling that this whole semester to going to feel like one long class field trip! Hopefully we will not always be moving like cattle through the streets.
Moo-oo.
For three straight days last weekend we moved through Vienna, Austria, like a herd of cattle- pausing every 10 minutes to ponder an important monument or building, sketch it quickly, snap our “obligatory” photos (architects all take surprisingly similar pictures of spaces), and move on. It was an unfortunate way to see the city, but understandably the only way to do it with so many students. I was incredibly thankful I had been to Vienna before and had experienced the city at my own pace.
We saw so many buildings that I won’t bore you by listing them. The architectural highlight of the trip, for me, was the tour of the roof structure above St. Stephansdom. The roof had been built entirely of timber, and was actually taller than the interior of the nave of the cathedral, until it burned down in an accidental blaze near the end of WWII. In the following years the roof was rebuilt to the same scale and height using steel construction, which weighs half of what the timber roof weighed, and is fireproofed. The space inside the roof was amazing- like being inside an oversized barn.
We were given evenings free to explore on our own and experience the city culture and cuisine. I took advantage of being outside Pasta World to eat a fair share of Wiener Wurst and Schnitzel. I even had goulash soup! I was also pretty excited to pull my high school language skills out of the closet and spreche ein bichen Deutsch. German-speaking countries are surprisingly comforting to me, which I’m not sure I had noticed before. I felt far safer and more comfortable in Vienna than I do in Florence- which I think has a lot to do with the language.
The most “cultural” event of the weekend was our trip to the Opera. Apparently it only costs 10 Euros to sit in decent seats in one of the most famous Opera houses in the world. Not bad. We saw “The Barber of Seville”- sung in Italian, but subtitled at our seats in English. It was my first opera experience, and I have to admit I enjoyed it much more than I expected! Turns out the opera is not so bad if you can understand the story and see it live!
The weekend ended with an overnight train ride back to Florence (oh, and I was in first class, by the way… hot towels and fresh espresso in the morning!), arriving in the rain at 6:00 AM. I was exhausted for a few days, and managed to recover just in time for a one-day architectural excursion to the city of Bologna. I have a feeling that this whole semester to going to feel like one long class field trip! Hopefully we will not always be moving like cattle through the streets.
Moo-oo.
15 settembre 2005
FYI
Brief update on life in Italy:
I have now finished two weeks of classes. Only 13 to go.
My studio project should be interesting, but a lot of work. Not good for Florence.
My roommate hasn't killed me yet.
I have almost eaten my weight in gelato.
I am now the proud owner of a Danish-style 1-speed with a basket and bell. It will be coming home with me.
This weekend my "Survey of Italian Architecture" class goes to Vienna. Right, I know- not Italian architecture. Whatever, it's travel. And we have tickets to the opera.
Life is good.
I have now finished two weeks of classes. Only 13 to go.
My studio project should be interesting, but a lot of work. Not good for Florence.
My roommate hasn't killed me yet.
I have almost eaten my weight in gelato.
I am now the proud owner of a Danish-style 1-speed with a basket and bell. It will be coming home with me.
This weekend my "Survey of Italian Architecture" class goes to Vienna. Right, I know- not Italian architecture. Whatever, it's travel. And we have tickets to the opera.
Life is good.
11 settembre 2005
more amateur night photography
La festa della rificolona
On September the 8th, Roman Catholics celebrate the birth of the Madonna. The eve of this holy day, however, has its own special celebration unique to Florence- the Festival of the Lanterns, or la festa della rificolona.
The festival begins after nightfall with a parade through il centro (the city center). Heralded by a community band, Florentine children carry paper handmade lanterns lit by small candles through the streets of Florence, beginning at the church of Santa Croce or the Duomo (the cathedral) and continuing to the Santissima Annunziata (church of the annunciation). Along the parade route, a traditional game erupts spontaneously as older children- mostly boys- use spit-guns to shoot small clay pellets at the lanterns. The goal of the game is to break the paper and cause the lantern to erupt into flames, while the poor children holding the lanterns attempt to dodge the ambush and arrive at SS. Annuziata with their lantern still intact and glowing.
Once the parade reaches the doors of the church, the building is opened to the people, who flock to the church’s famous painting of the Madonna (said to have been miraculously finished by an angel as the monk painting it slept) to light a candle and say a prayer of thanks to the virgin mother and to God.
Outside the church, parade participants, onlookers, and tourists gather in the Piazza to enjoy local music, dancing, carnival food, and people-watching late into the night.
The colors and the glow of the lanterns, the smell of fried dough and chocolate mixed with burnt paper and rain, the smiling faces of the children and the mischievous grins of the clay-spitters, the spirit of anticipation and happiness- these are the memories I have taken away from my experience of something uniquely Florentine.
The festival begins after nightfall with a parade through il centro (the city center). Heralded by a community band, Florentine children carry paper handmade lanterns lit by small candles through the streets of Florence, beginning at the church of Santa Croce or the Duomo (the cathedral) and continuing to the Santissima Annunziata (church of the annunciation). Along the parade route, a traditional game erupts spontaneously as older children- mostly boys- use spit-guns to shoot small clay pellets at the lanterns. The goal of the game is to break the paper and cause the lantern to erupt into flames, while the poor children holding the lanterns attempt to dodge the ambush and arrive at SS. Annuziata with their lantern still intact and glowing.
Once the parade reaches the doors of the church, the building is opened to the people, who flock to the church’s famous painting of the Madonna (said to have been miraculously finished by an angel as the monk painting it slept) to light a candle and say a prayer of thanks to the virgin mother and to God.
Outside the church, parade participants, onlookers, and tourists gather in the Piazza to enjoy local music, dancing, carnival food, and people-watching late into the night.
The colors and the glow of the lanterns, the smell of fried dough and chocolate mixed with burnt paper and rain, the smiling faces of the children and the mischievous grins of the clay-spitters, the spirit of anticipation and happiness- these are the memories I have taken away from my experience of something uniquely Florentine.
03 settembre 2005
Florence night-light
01 settembre 2005
5 days in Florence and I still feel like a tourist.
It has not settled into my brain yet that I am living here. Not here just to visit. Not going home on Monday. Living here. In Florence. Surrounded by some of the most famous art and architecture in history. Maybe next week, when classes begin, it will start to sink in.
No matter- I’m happy to be here! This week Katherine and I have been playing tourist with her friend, Danielle, who is visiting for a few days. It is great to have a reason to go to all the main attractions, and also good to sort of get them “out of the way” early (especially since we get in free as Florence students!!). I’m sure we will be back to most of these places with sketchbooks in hand throughout the semester.
So far I have visited three of the major churches: Santa Maria Novella (the picture of the basilica-looking building with the tree in the foreground), San Lorenzo, and Santa Croce. At Santa Croce we also saw the Pazzi Chapel (considered Brunelleschi’s best work- it’s behind Katherine and I in a picture). I’ve visited the Palazzo Pitti (largest palace in Florence, home to the Medici family for years) and its Boboli Gardens (the photo of me, Katherine, and Erin- another classmate- with the upright rock behind us) and Grotto (the photo of the room that looks like it has stalagmites and rock encrusted on everything). The remaining picture demonstrates the seriousness with which some Florence restaurants serve their pizza slices.
The best thing about Florence so far is its size. I forgot how small the Centre (historic district) is, until I walked out the door of our apartment building, turned a corner, and 2 minutes later was standing in the middle of Piazza della Signoria, the heart of the city. Our location is fantastic! For those with a map or knowledge of Florence, I live one block south and west of Santa Croce, and 2 blocks north of the Arno River. Unbelievable. On the streets around our apartment we have an internet café, leather shops, card/stationary shops, an English bookstore, and many, many restaurants/cafes/wine shops/and gelaterias. Within a few minutes I can get to the supermarket and the open-air market, and 10 minutes more gets me to school.
I hope you enjoying the photos- I haven’t had a chance to take pictures of the apartment yet, but I will soon. Once things settle into a routine here I think I will be able to express myself more clearly and write more interesting posts. However, I am alive, I am taking advantage of every opportunity, and I am ever thankful to be here.
I’m sorry I haven’t done much (ok ANY) personal emailing… but if you have news, please write and share it with me!
A piu tardi!
No matter- I’m happy to be here! This week Katherine and I have been playing tourist with her friend, Danielle, who is visiting for a few days. It is great to have a reason to go to all the main attractions, and also good to sort of get them “out of the way” early (especially since we get in free as Florence students!!). I’m sure we will be back to most of these places with sketchbooks in hand throughout the semester.
So far I have visited three of the major churches: Santa Maria Novella (the picture of the basilica-looking building with the tree in the foreground), San Lorenzo, and Santa Croce. At Santa Croce we also saw the Pazzi Chapel (considered Brunelleschi’s best work- it’s behind Katherine and I in a picture). I’ve visited the Palazzo Pitti (largest palace in Florence, home to the Medici family for years) and its Boboli Gardens (the photo of me, Katherine, and Erin- another classmate- with the upright rock behind us) and Grotto (the photo of the room that looks like it has stalagmites and rock encrusted on everything). The remaining picture demonstrates the seriousness with which some Florence restaurants serve their pizza slices.
The best thing about Florence so far is its size. I forgot how small the Centre (historic district) is, until I walked out the door of our apartment building, turned a corner, and 2 minutes later was standing in the middle of Piazza della Signoria, the heart of the city. Our location is fantastic! For those with a map or knowledge of Florence, I live one block south and west of Santa Croce, and 2 blocks north of the Arno River. Unbelievable. On the streets around our apartment we have an internet café, leather shops, card/stationary shops, an English bookstore, and many, many restaurants/cafes/wine shops/and gelaterias. Within a few minutes I can get to the supermarket and the open-air market, and 10 minutes more gets me to school.
I hope you enjoying the photos- I haven’t had a chance to take pictures of the apartment yet, but I will soon. Once things settle into a routine here I think I will be able to express myself more clearly and write more interesting posts. However, I am alive, I am taking advantage of every opportunity, and I am ever thankful to be here.
I’m sorry I haven’t done much (ok ANY) personal emailing… but if you have news, please write and share it with me!
A piu tardi!
